Ahead of last weekend’s marathon, I reached out to the fine folks at
Smuttynose to warn them of my impending arrival and advise them to stock up on beer as necessary. I had the chance to meet Robby Brandolo, National Chain Account Manager, in the beer tent after the marathon, and she was perfectly content despite having stood in the rain all morning long (happiness possibly attributed to the fact that, in her own words she “get[s] to drink on the job.” Not a bad gig). Robby gave us a quick run-down of what they were pouring: Star Island Single, a session beer picked especially for the post-marathon crowd.
Session beers are by definition lower in ABV (less than 5%), which some say makes them a natural ally of the distance runner. I myself prefer a high gravity beer after a marathon, because I think it’s funny to get drunk in places you probably shouldn’t be drunk, such as at the finish line of an endurance event, but that’s just my take… Anyway, Robby explained that they serve Star Island at the races they sponsor because some non-beer drinkers enjoy it as a means to get hydrated. Which is what I’m going to tell people I’m doing when I start drinking beer at my desk…
In any event, Robby also put me in touch with JT Thompson, Minister of Propaganda (that’s his real title) at Smuttynose, who was kind enough to answer some questions I emailed him. I explained in advance I’d be doing a little recap on my blog (actually, I referred to it as “investigative journalism,” told him he couldn’t “handle the truth,” and vowed he’d “never work in this town again” if he didn’t answer), so I’ve copied his responses to my deep and probing (that’s what he said) questions below:
CW: Smuttynose seems to have a strong involvement in the local NH running scene – something we unfortunately don’t see much here in NYC despite having plenty of Brooklyn-made beers. Are these partnerships driven by the brewery – are there runners in your midst? – or by the local races/running groups?
JT, MofP: We've got one runner here, Robby Brondolo and I understand that you met her this weekend. She's done some 5ks that we've been involved in and she's our contact with LOCO Running with whom we partner on the "Will Run For Beer" series. LOCO actually approached us about working together and it's been a great partnership.
CW: New England is blessed with a plethora of craft breweries – how have you been able to carve a niche for yourselves? What do you think sets you apart?
JT, MofP: I think a number of factors allowed us to carve a niche for ourselves going back to our earliest days. Our Founder Peter Egelston had already opened two brewpubs with his sister before opening Smuttynose with another partner, so there was a certain amount of built-in recognition by virtue of Peter being involved.
Secondly, I think that our beer line-up has given us the ability to keep one foot grounded in what we've always done, which is to brew a core line-up of full-flavored, naturally brewed unfiltered beers in the English Ale tradition while the structure of our portfolio has allowed us to experiment and brew more unique or limited beers for seasonal, Big Beer, or Short Batch releases. We launched our Big Beer Series, a series of large format, limited-release beers in 1998, well before anyone else was doing that on a distribution-sized scale. As the craft beer world has changed, we've found ourselves kind of straddling two different craft beer worlds; that of the hard core aficionado that's filled with barrel-aging, obscure ingredients, and perpetual limited releases and the other that's larger and populated by people who like to drink beer with character and flavor but aren't part of the die-hard, vocal minority. This divide allows us to be both edgy, yet accessible.
Our label artwork really helps us stand out as well. We're the only brewery I can think of that uses photography on our labels. The photos we use are shot specifically for the labels; we don't draw from stock images, so each of our year round brands has a very distinctive presentation that stays with people.
CW: We do get Smuttynose here in NYC (Old Brown Dog is features heavily in my rotation. And last year’s S’Muttonator was a doozy, and I mean that in the best way possible), and I see that you have distribution as far south as Florida and as far west as Illinois. What does the craft beer scene look like outside of places like New England or Milwaukee, where it’s really taking off? Are you seeing a lot of growth and interest, or are you distributing mainly to die hard beer fans as opposed to those just beginning to dabble?
JT, MofP: I think the craft beer scene is taking off all around the US. In fact I tend to think of New England as a more mature market for craft beer along with the West Coast and mid-Atlantic. Please understand that these markets still have plenty of growth potential but I think the real booming markets are in the center of the country, places where local beer is still relatively new. I'm not sure who is buying our beer in all our different markets but I do know that I see a very broad range of visitors on our tours; everyone from early 20s Brooklyn hipsters, construction workers from our area and retired couples who used to go on wine tours. Craft beer is an incredibly hot commodity right now and i think we're seeing growth across all different demographics. I don't know of a single craft brewer who is down or even with last year's production and as a market segment, craft beer is the only section of the beer business that's really growing right now.
Very interesting stuff, JT, MofP. I love to hear that the craft beer movement is really taking off nationwide; the whole thinking behind my own beer runs was that I wanted to get people to see how many different, interesting beers are out there, and realize that they really could find a beer for them, even if they aren’t a “beer drinker.” I think Robby’s point in the beer tent, that some people seriously drank the Star Island to rehydrate, underscores this; there is a beer for every purpose.
To Smuttynose’s credit, and echoing JT, MofP’s point about straddling (that’s what she said) the two worlds of craft beer, I think they do a great job of making
actually flavorful, balanced beers that do have appeal to the non-hard core minority. Stone, for example, is so focused on super high IBUs and burning your tongue out of your face with bitterness that it sometimes seems like they aren’t even trying to make a balanced beer; it’s all about being a “big beer.” Smuttynose offers big beers (see S’Muttonator… seriously that knocked me on my ass for the evening), but they also offer totally drinkable
beers too..
And they like dogs.
In summation, I like Smuttynose beers, and I like the people who work there, and they like runners, and so I suggest you go get youself some Smuttynose stat. (According to craft beer lore, you can order one by saying “Make mine a Smutty.” IMan thinks that’s how you can order girlfriends too. Heyo! Wait did I just call myself a slut? I’m confused…).
Also, I shall heretofore be known as Claire, Minister of Badass MoFo Marathoning Times. C, MofBAMFMT. That should definitely be easier than writing out all 6 letters of my name. You're welcome.